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职业装减少接缝起皱现象需要在制作中注意什么?
来源: 日期:2023-11-23 发布人:
当使用合成缝纫线时,必须小心确定缝线的张力,应使张力调整到低。底线张力必须调整到:当缝线自由移动的末端拉起时,底线梭心轴及外套慢慢向下滑动,面线与底线的张力必须保持一致,使它们恰好在两层布料之间交织。
When using synthetic sewing thread, care must be taken to determine the tension of the thread and adjust it to a low level. The tension of the bottom thread must be adjusted to: when the free moving end of the sewing thread is pulled up, the bottom thread spindle and outer sleeve slowly slide downwards, and the tension of the top thread and bottom thread must be consistent, so that they are intertwined between the two layers of fabric.
合成缝纫线缝入布料的张力太大,将会自动收缩以缓和这种张力,这种现象将使沿着接缝的布身收缩,进而使接缝起皱。
The tension of the synthetic sewing thread sewn into the fabric is too high, and it will automatically shrink to alleviate this tension. This phenomenon will cause the fabric body along the seam to shrink, causing the seam to wrinkle.
当缝纫的方向与这些布料的经向方向平行时,嵌入的缝线会将经纱迫离原位,因每针缝线都将经纱推开,经过多针积累所产生的偏差将沿着接缝的布身收缩从而导致车缝起皱,当缝纫的方向与这些布料的纬向方向平行时,通常较少起皱。
When the sewing direction is parallel to the warp direction of these fabrics, the embedded thread will force the warp yarn away from its original position. As each stitch pushes the warp yarn apart, the deviation generated by the accumulation of multiple stitches will shrink along the fabric body of the seam, resulting in wrinkling of the sewing seam. When the sewing direction is parallel to the weft direction of these fabrics, there is usually less wrinkling.
而根据经验显示,在对角中斜向的接缝则不会起皱,大多数布料,只要使接缝处于经度或纬度的斜角15度方向,就足以避免起皱。因此,可考虑使用斜裁方式作业。必要时,可在布料上涂抹平滑剂。
According to experience, diagonal seams in diagonals do not wrinkle, and for most fabrics, keeping the seam at a 15 degree angle of longitude or latitude is sufficient to avoid wrinkling. Therefore, oblique cutting method can be considered for operation. If necessary, a smoothing agent can be applied to the fabric.
近年来,随着服装面料的市场需求不断地多样化、差异化,各种新型的纺纱技术相继出现,比如赛络纺纺纱、索罗纺纺纱、赛络菲尔纺纱、紧密纺纺纱等,这些新型的纺纱技术有一个共同的特点,都是通过对细纱机作适当的改造来达到各自的目的。现在业内讨论为热烈的“半精纺”则完全不同,它是棉纺设备和毛纺设备的一种有机结合,是一种创新的纺纱工艺。“半精纺”纺纱大的特点是对加工原料的适应性强,可以把毛、棉、丝、麻及各种化学纤维以任意配比进行混纺。利用“半精纺”纺纱工艺开发的多种纤维混纺面料,产物新颖独特,使产物结构变得异常丰富,顺应了市场需求和毛纺技术的发展潮流。
In recent years, with the continuous diversification and differentiation of market demand for clothing fabrics, various new spinning technologies have emerged one after another, such as Siro spinning, Solo spinning, Sirofil spinning, compact spinning, etc. These new spinning technologies have a common feature, which is achieved through appropriate modifications to the spinning machine to achieve their respective goals. The currently hotly discussed "semi worsted" in the industry is completely different. It is an organic combination of cotton and wool spinning equipment, and an innovative spinning process. The characteristic of "semi worsted" spinning is its strong adaptability to processing raw materials, which can blend wool, cotton, silk, hemp, and various chemical fibers in any ratio. The various fiber blended fabrics developed using the "semi worsted" spinning process are novel and unique, making the product structure exceptionally rich, in line with market demand and the development trend of wool spinning technology.
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